Until the end of the 19th century, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc were often confused. The ampelographer Victor Pulliat (1827-1896) had already assumed in 1868 that there were two different varieties and this was officially recognised, at least in France, in 1872. Other countries had problems for much longer and considered the two to be identical. In Austria, they were still listed together in the official lists of grape varieties until 1999. It was only in 1999 that DNA analyses finally confirmed their independence: Chardonnay is a cross between Gouais Blanc x Pinot. In Styria, Chardonnay is traditionally referred to as Morillon and is often considered to be independent. This vine has minor morphological differences compared to Chardonnay, but is genetically identical.
According to one hypothesis, the variety Obeïdi (Obaideh), which is cultivated in Lebanon, is the ancestor, but this is obsolete due to the now clarified parentage. Obeïdi is probably a clone, but DNA analyses are still pending. There are three mutations of Chardonnay Chardonnay Rosé with pink berries, Chardonnay Musqué with a delicate musky tone in the wines made from it, and the one grown in the French Jura Melon à Queue Rouge. However, it cannot be ruled out that Chardonnay Rosé is the basic variety and that the white variety has mutated from it. Chardonnay was/is a popular crossing partner of new varieties, including Chardon, Chardonel, Charmont, Chasan, Cristina, Doral, Heranecot, Korai Gyöngy, Liliorila, Perdea, Perraton, Ravat Blanc, Sila, Sukholimansky Bely and Tissier Ravat.
The variety was probably first mentioned in documents under the name Beaunois in 1583 in the department of Saône-et-Loire, but it could also have meant Aligoté. A reliable mention under the name Chardonnet occurred in 1685, and it is said to have received its present main name after the Burgundian commune of Chardonnay (Mâconnais). The Roman Catholic orders of the Benedictines and Cistercians have in any case ensured the spread of the variety throughout Europe. The early-maturing vine is very sensitive. It is susceptible to powdery mildew, botrytis, yellowing or flavescence dorée, trickling and small berries. The variety yields white wines with diverse aromas of hazelnut, marzipan and butter, which tend to oxidise. There are around 30 recognised clones in France (see Dijon clones), some of which are quite different in terms of yield and susceptibility to disease.
There are also great differences or variety in the wines. Character and taste are more dependent on soil type, climate and vinification than with other grape varieties. Much more often than with most white wine varieties, methods such as malolactic fermentation, lees ageing and barrique age ing are practised here. The versatile variety is very well suited for all types of vinification from dry to noble sweet and equally excellent for the production of sparkling wines. It is very often vinified as a single variety, but is also a popular blending partner, among others with Sémillon, for which the term "Semchard" has come into use. The variety divides opinions, as there are die-hard critics and even opponents, which led to the well-known saying ABC (Anything But Chardonnay), but at least just as many fans. In summary, however, one can say that Chardonnay is one of the world's greats, the Cépages nobles.
In France, the variety is immensely popular and successful. The area under cultivation has increased sevenfold in 60 years from 7,325 hectares in 1958 to 47,451 hectares. It is thus the second most common white grape variety behind Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano Toscano). The largest quantities are in Burgundy (33%), Languedoc-Roussillon (27%) and Champagne (21%). All the great Burgundian white wines are made from this grape variety. These are mainly the areas of Côte de Beaune (southern half of the Côte d'Or) with the world-famous appellations Aloxe-Corton, Meursault and Montrachet, as well as Chablis and Mâconnais. Likewise, all champagnes pressed as "Blanc de Blancs" are produced from Chardonnay and in the champagne cuvées this is the most important grape variety alongside the red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Once a year there is the Chardonnay du Monde competition in the Burgundian commune of Chaintré.
In Italy, 19,769 hectares are planted with it. Here it is mainly grown in the regions of Trentino-Alto Adige, Lombardy, Puglia and Sicily. Other countries in Europe are Belgium, Bulgaria (3,087 ha), Germany (2,100 ha), England (531 ha), Georgia, Greece (673 ha), Croatia (657 ha), Luxembourg (30 ha), Malta, Moldova (4,133 ha), Austria (1,618 ha), Portugal (547 ha), Romania (1.878 ha), Russia (3,481 ha), Switzerland (359 ha), Slovakia (310 ha), Slovenia (1,181 ha), Serbia (1,455 ha), Spain (6,866 ha), Czech Republic (820 ha), Turkey (177 ha), Ukraine (1,500 ha), Hungary (2,464 ha) and Cyprus (128 ha).
Overseas, there are stands in Argentina (6,227 ha), Australia (21,321), Bolivia, Brazil (340 ha), Chile (11,435), China (6,100 ha), India (100 ha), Israel (165), Japan (137 ha), Canada (1.417 ha), Lebanon (1,000 ha), Morocco (880 ha), Mexico, Myanmar (2 ha), New Zealand (3,117 ha), Peru (1 ha), South Africa (6,856 ha), Tunisia (170 ha) and Uruguay (119 ha). In the USA, the area under cultivation is 41,392 ha, of which around 38,000 are in California. Other states with smaller amounts are Idaho, New York, Oregon, Texas, Virginia and Washington (3,000 ha). In 2016, a total of 201,649 hectares of vineyards were reported, with a slight upward trend. Compared to 1990 with 69,282 hectares at that time, this resulted in about three times the amount in 25 years. This puts it in 5th place in the global grape variety ranking (Kym Anderson statistics).
Source: Wine Grapes / J. Robinson, J. Harding, J. Vouillamoz / Penguin Books Ltd. 2012
Grapes: Ursula Brühl, Doris Schneider, Julius Kühn-Institut (JKI)
Flavour glass: © armin faber Info@faberpartner.dee
