A term commonly used in Austria for two typical Austrian institutions in connection with wine. The first is the young wine of the current (this year's) vintage. On Martini, the feast and name day of Saint Martin, 11 November, the wine is baptised and thus becomes a Heuriger. The Heuriger, which until then had been a Heuriger, subsequently becomes an "Alter". Until this day, according to old custom, the toast "Prost" must not be used when drinking wine. The term "Heuriger" is reserved exclusively for Austria within the European Union and is regulated by wine law. Land wines and quality wines may be labelled "Heuriger" if they are made exclusively from grapes harvested in Austria. They may be sold to resellers by 31 December of the year following the harvest at the latest and to consumers by 31 March of the following year. The vintage year must be indicated on the label.
Secondly, Heuriger is also the name for a typical wine bar where home-grown wine, i.e. Heurigen wine, is served. Heuriger taverns are not open all year round. A green "Busch'n" made of twigs (brushwood) is placed above the front door to indicate that the wine is being served. This is also referred to as "Ausstecken" or the fact of opening as "ausg'steckt is". The terms Buschenschank or Besenwirtschaft, which are mainly used in Germany, have the same meaning. In the past, the young wine served was also called "Henglwein". This is derived from the pole (the "Hengl") attached to the wall of the house, to which the "Buschen" was attached (hung). Even today, family names with "Hengl" or similar in Vienna and the surrounding area bear witness to this custom (e.g. the "Bachhengl" wine tavern in Grinzing).
The official birth of the Heurigen came on 17 August 1784 with the following written decree by Austrian Emperor Joseph II (1741-1790): Although several decrees expressly forbid landowners from forcing their subjects to buy and sell certain natural goods in any form whatsoever, various cases have nevertheless occurred which prove that this law has been disregarded and make it necessary to renew it for the protection of their subjects. We therefore hereby forbid all landowning authorities, under the most severe punishment, to force their subjects, under whatever name or pretext, to buy, sell or serve food or drink on account of the authorities, or to force them to serve it at a higher price than the authorities, and on the other hand give everyone the freedom to sell or serve the food, wine and fruit cider they produce themselves at any time of the year, however, whenever and at whatever price they wish.
After the defeat of Napoleon (1769-1821) at Waterloo, Europe was reorganised at the Congress of Vienna (September 1814 to June 1815). In addition to the official events, there were countless banquets, parties, balls and visits to wine taverns, which was one of the reasons why negotiations were slow and laboured. The well-known saying "The Congress dances (but it doesn't go on)" illustrates this. The rulers of the most important European countries were represented in person and also enjoyed themselves privately. The Russian Tsar Alexander I (1777-1825) is known to have frequently visited Viennese wine taverns (incognito). The following leaflet circulated:
The Heuriger was highly honoured by Crown Prince Rudolf (1858-1889), who was regularly driven to the Heuriger in Dornbach and Hernals by his regular hackney carriage driver and confidant Josef Bratfisch, who also performed as a Heuriger singer. The two famous composers Ludwig van Beethoven (1770-1827) and Franz Schubert (1797-1828) were also enthusiastic visitors to the wine taverns. Most Viennese songs were also written in Heurigen, many of which pay tribute to wine, women and socialising ("Wein, Weib und Gesang"). They are often characterised by a certain "tristesse", which supposedly corresponds to the nature and attitude to life of the "typical Viennese". In the spirit of the well-known song "Verkauft's mei G'wand, i fahr' in Himmel" . See also under winegrowing customs.
The wein.plus encyclopaedia is a comprehensive, well-researched reference work. Available anytime and anywhere, it has become an indispensable part of teaching, used by students and myself alike. Highly recommended!
Dominik Trick
Technischer Lehrer, staatl. geprüfter Sommelier, Hotelfachschule Heidelberg