The white grape variety originates from Italy. Synonyms grouped alphabetically by country are Grec Blanc, Malvoisie de Lipari (France); Balsamina Bianca, Graeco, Greco Bianco di Gerace, Greco del Vesuvio, Greco di Cosenza, Greco di Gerace, Greco di Cirò, Greco Maceratino, Malvagia, Malvasia de Banyalbufar, Malvasia delle Lipari, Malvasia di Bosa, Malvasia di Cagliari, Malvasia di Sardegna, Malvasia di Sardegna Aromatica, Malvasia di Ragusa, Montecchiese, Morbidella, Ragusano Bianco, Uva Cerreto, Uva Greca (Italy); Malvasia de la Palma, Malvasía de Tenerife, Malvasía Rosada (Canary Islands); Malvasija Dubrovačka, Malvazia Tvrda (Croatia); Malmsey, Malvasia Cândida (Madeira); Cheres, Malvasía de Sitges, Verdal (Spain). This is one of the many varieties with the name part Malvasia. It should not be confused with the varieties Greco, Greco Bianco, Malvasia Bianca di Candia, Malvasia Bianca di Piemonte, Malvasía de Lanzarote or Trebbiano Toscano (Balsamina Bianca), despite the synonyms or morphological similarities that seem to indicate it. A mutation with reddish berries is Malvasia di Sardegna Rosada. Malvasia Babosa is the result of a presumably natural cross between Hebén x Malvasia di Lipari.
For a long time, many of them were regarded as independent varieties and their matching DNA profile was only clarified by several DNA analyses. This also revealed a close relationship with the varieties Malvasia Bianca Lunga (as Malvasia del Chianti), Malvasia Nera di Brindisi and Malvazija Istarska. It is probably a very old variety whose origin remains uncertain. This is because there is a lack of genetic and historical evidence for a frequently expressed presumed introduction to Sicily by the Greeks in the 6th century BC, although there is some circumstantial evidence to support this. The late-maturing vine is susceptible to powdery mildew and vulnerable to a late spring frost. It usually yields powerful, slightly aromatic white wines with moderate acidity. The loose-grained grapes are best suited for drying and are therefore often used for the production of sweet wines (passito). It is cultivated under various names in the western Mediterranean and in the Atlantic (Canary Islands/Spain, Madeira/Portugal).
In Italy, it is authorised in Sicily in the DOC wine Malvasia delle Lipari, in Calabria under Greco Bianco di Gerace in the DOC wine Greco di Bianco and in Sardinia under Malvasia di Sardegna in the DOC wines Malvasia di Cagliari and Malvasia di Bosa and is cultivated on 106 hectares. In Croatia, it has been known as Malvasija Dubrovačka since 1385 and is grown near Dubrovnik. In Portugal, it is registered under Malvasia Cândida in Madeira and on the mainland in the areas of Beiras, Lisboa, Trás-os-Montes and Tejo. Here, however, it only occupies a total of 6 hectares. In Spain, it is present on the mainland under Malvasía de Sitges in Catalunya. There are further populations on the Canary Islands under the names Malvasía de Tenerife and Malvasía Rosada. However, no stocks have been recorded (in 2010 there were 112 ha). In 2016, only a total of 113 hectares of vines were recorded, with a strong downward trend (Kym Anderson).
Source: Wine Grapes / J. Robinson, J. Harding, J. Vouillamoz / Penguin Books Ltd. 2012.
Images: Ursula Brühl, Doris Schneider, Julius Kühn-Institut (JKI)
