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Quality system

The final decision on the quality of a wine is made by the consumer and, despite all scientifically sound methods of analysis, is a mixture of not purely objective, but largely subjective impressions. Whether a wine "tastes good" also depends on physiological preferences or dislikes (someone doesn't like red wine because they may have had a bad experience due to high histamine levels ), the consumer's cultural background and personal experience. Strictly speaking, experience is subjective, but on the other hand it is an objective criterion ( acidic wines give someone heartburn, which means that such a wine is of poor quality).

The chemist uses objective analyses to describe what the wine is like, while the consumer or wine critic describes subjectively what it tastes like. The former produces the same result when repeated, the latter is not certain. Ultimately, the saying must be accepted: De gustibus non est disputandum (You can't argue about taste). A qualitative wine evaluation in the form of a score and textual description is determined by professional tastings. There are already attempts to determine the "tastable" quality by means of a glycosyl-glucose assay.

Origin & quality pyramid

Wine quality is influenced by the origin (source), methods of vineyard care (vineyard) and type of vinification (cellar). The practice of categorising wines into quality classes already existed in ancient times, whereby the origin of the grapes has always played a major role in the assessment. From the 1970s onwards, a system based on origin was introduced in many countries. In the 1990s, the EU established a multi-stage quality system with the stages table wine (but see there), table wine, country wine and quality wine (or QbA = quality wine from specific growing regions), which was valid until July 2009. In some countries, there were also intermediate levels or special designations, such as Prädikatswein in Germany and Austria. In the EU countries and to some extent also in the New World, a mostly multi-stage quality wine scheme with various designations is still valid.

EU wine market organisation 2009

An extensively adapted EU wine market regulation with major changes to the quality levels and designations came into force on 1 August 2009. The origin protection system of Community food law was also adopted for wine and the criterion of provenance (origin) was given great importance. Under the new system, a distinction is now made between "wine without a geographical indication" and "wine with a geographical indication". The quality philosophy of "Romanesque wine law", which is modelled on the French appellation system and has always been based on origin for wine, but also for food and agricultural products, has thus been adopted. This is intended to replace the quality hierarchies, which in many countries are sometimes arbitrarily defined by the state and sometimes incompatible with each other, and to link the new levels with clear profiles and make them comprehensible to consumers.

New quality levels

In accordance with a transitional period, wines that were marketed under the "old regulation" before 31 December 2010 could continue to be marketed until stocks were exhausted. However, the Member States were obliged to submit the technical specifications for all names of origin to be protected to the Commission by the end of 2011, as otherwise the international protection for such an origin would have lapsed. The new designations:

  • Wine without variety and vintage with indication of state = e.g. wine from Germany (formerly table wine)
  • Wine with variety and/or vintage with indication of state
  • Wine made from grapes from one EU country, processed in another EU country
  • Wine made from a blend of wines from several EU countries = European wine
  • Wine PGI = Wine with a protected geographical indication = Landwein
  • Wine PDO = wine with protected designation of origin = quality wine/predicate wine

Qualitäts-Stufen - Wein, Landwein, Qualitäts-/Prädikatswein

A special feature is the possible processing of grapes from one EU member state in another EU member state. For example, "wine produced in Austria from grapes harvested in Italy". Wines from third countries are labelled with an indication of the third country, for example "wine from Chile" or "wine from Australia". A blend of wines from several third countries, for example a Chilean wine blended with an Australian wine, is labelled "Blend of wines from outside the European Community" or "Blend of Chilean and Australian wine".

Wines without geographical indications

These are labelled simply as "wine"; the term " table wine " is no longer permitted. At this stage, a distinction is made between "wine" (without indication of variety and/or vintage) and "wine with indication of variety and/or vintage". During the negotiations, Germany and Austria spoke out against the possibility of labelling wine without the more detailed origin as the Member State with grape variety(ies) and vintage. However, they were outvoted by the majority with the argument of achieving equal opportunities with wine exports from third countries such as Argentina, Australia, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa and the USA. As a compromise, however, it was decided that the member states must stipulate stricter requirements and controls for these wines than for wines without a grape variety and vintage indication.

The new quality category "wine" is intended to enable larger quantities of simpler wines without a more precise origin but with grape variety information to be better positioned on the (world) market, as has long been the practice in overseas countries. Prior to the new wine market organisation, the indication of grape varieties in the "table wine" category was prohibited within the EU. This category was therefore deliberately downgraded in order to positively distinguish wines of origin (country and quality). The aim was to make the simpler wines more marketable in order to get away from the expensive elimination of surplus production.

It is obligatory to indicate the origin in the form of the member state (e.g. wine from Germany or product from Austria) in which the grapes were harvested and processed into wine. If the wine is made from grapes from different member states, it must be labelled "Wine from the European Community" (or similar). Although this is confusing with regard to the designation "wines without a geographical indication", "Member State" or "European Community" are not considered "geographical indication" or "designation of origin". Furthermore, the bottler must also be indicated. On the other hand, information about the winery such as chateau, vineyard or winery, as well as production methods such as "fermented in barrel" or "matured in barrel" are prohibited.

Wine - without indication of variety and/or vintage

These wines correspond analogously to the previous table wine. It is regarded as a market regulation product of low quality. For this reason, it may also have wine defects such as a slight bump to a certain extent that does not impair the flavour. There are no maximum yield limits for this lowest level, nor are there any cultivation or production rules, which allows a great deal of room for manoeuvre.

Wine - with indication of variety and/or vintage

These wines with no indication of origin other than the member state must be free from defects in appearance, odour and taste and must be typical of the grape variety. There is a country-specific maximum yield regulation here. Certain grape variety designations that have a protected geographical indication or a protected designation of origin as part of their name and could therefore be misleading for the consumer are excluded. For example, Weißer, Grauer and Blauer Burgunder allude to Burgundy and are therefore prohibited in Germany and Austria. It is up to the member states to define these grape varieties.

Qualitätssystem - gU und ggA

Landwein and quality wine (old) = PGI wine and PDO wine (new)

As in the past, there are two levels for the wines above these in terms of quality, which correspond to the former Landwein and Qualitätswein (plus Prädikat wines). The smaller the region of origin, the higher the legal wine requirements regarding yield and alcohol content. All protected designations of origin must be applied for by the member states and are listed in an EU regulation.

The member states are authorised to retain all previous designations as traditional terms. As before, there will be country-specific gradations within the two levels, such as in Germany and Austria for PDO quality wine and Prädikat wine or in Italy DOC and DOCG. In order to increase competitiveness with third countries (non-EU states), these wines may now also be bottled in containers such as bag-in-boxes or Tetra Paks without restriction, unlike in the past. A new trend with sustainability in mind is to also bottle wine in returnable beer bottles with crown caps.

The two terms PGI (protected geographical indication) and PDO (protected designation of origin) are nothing new, but have been used for a long time for the labelling of foodstuffs with geographical and origin protection.

Wine PGI = wine with a protected geographical indication

These wines correspond to country wines. As a rule, they come from larger areas such as regions or federal states. It is mandatory to indicate the member state and the wine-growing region as the indication of origin on the label. The term "geographical indication" refers to the name of a region, a specific place or, in exceptional cases, a country, which is used to designate a wine with the following requirements:

It has a certain quality, reputation or other characteristics resulting from that geographical origin; at least 85% of the grapes come exclusively from or its production takes place in that geographical area; and it was obtained from grape varieties belonging to the species Vitis vinifera or a cross between varieties of Vitis vinifera and another variety of the genus Vitis (e.g. Asian Vitis amurensis or American Vitis labrusca). The specifications are less strict and extensive than for PDO wine. The designations in the national languages:

  • Bulgaria: Regionalno Vino
  • Germany: Landwein, additionally permitted: protected geographical indication (PGI is not permitted)
  • England and internationally: PGI = Protected Geographical Indication
  • France: IGP = Indication Géographique Protégée (Vin de pays)
  • Greece: PGE = Prostatevomenis Geografikis Endixis (Topikos Oinos)
  • Italy: IGP = Indicazione Geografica Protetta (IGT = Indicazione Geografica Tipica)
  • Croatia: ZOZP = Zaštićena Oznaka Zemljopisnog Podrijetla (Regionalno Vino)
  • Austria: Landwein (PGI is not permitted)
  • Poland: COG = Chronione Oznaczenie Geograficzne (Wino Krajowe)
  • Portugal: IGP = Indicação Geográfica Protegida (VR = Vinho Regional)
  • Romania: IG = Indicație Geografică (Vin de Regiune)
  • Slovakia: CZO = Chráněné Zeměpisné Označeni (Regionálne Víno)
  • Slovenia: PGO = Priznano Geografsko Oznako (Deželno Vino)
  • Spain: IGP = Indicación Geográfica Protegida (VdlT = Vino de la Tierra)
  • Czech Republic: CZO = Chráněné Zeměpisné Označeni (Zemské Víno)
  • Hungary: OFJ = Oltalom alatt álló földrajzi jelzés (Tájbor)

Wine PDO = wine with protected designation of origin designation of origin

These wines correspond to the earlier levels of quality wine and Prädikat wine. As a rule, they come from smaller areas such as municipalities (villages), single vineyard and cadastral sites (Germany) or vineyards (Austria). The "designation of origin" is the name of a region, a specific place or, in exceptional cases, a country, which is used to designate a wine with the following requirements:

It owes its quality or characteristics predominantly or exclusively to geographical conditions, including natural and human influences; the grapes come exclusively from or its production takes place in this geographical area; and was obtained from grape varieties of the species Vitis vinifera. The varieties concerned are defined by the EU member states on their own responsibility (see Quality wine grape varieties).

Production is subject to country-specific criteria regarding vineyard management such as vine training, planting density and pruning; yield restrictions; minimum values for the must weight of the grapes; type of harvest; specifications regarding vinification such as enrichment, spriting, acidification, sweetening and type or duration of ageing; as well as specifications regarding alcohol content, colour, total extract, taste, residual sugar and acidity of the wine.

The wines must undergo analytical (chemical/physical) and sensory (tasting) tests before being marketed; if the results are negative, they are graded. For more information, see Official test number (Germany) and State test number (Austria). The designations in the national languages:

  • Bulgaria: GNP = Garantirano Naimenovanie sa Proischod (Katschestveno Vino)
  • Germany: Qualitätswein/Prädikatswein, additionally permitted: protected origin (PDO is not permitted)
  • England and internationally: PDO = Protected Designation of Origin (Quality Wine PSR)
  • France: AOP = Appellation d'Origine Protégée (AOC/AC, VDQS)
  • Greece: POP = Prostatevomenis Onomasías Proelefsis (OPAP, OPE, OKP)
  • Italy: DOP = Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOC, DOCG)
  • Croatia: ZOI = Zaštićena Oznaka Izvornosti (Kvalitetno Vino, Predikatno Vino)
  • Austria: DAC = Districtus Austriae Controllatus or quality wine/predicate wine (PDO is not permitted)
  • Poland: CNP = Chroniona Nazwa Pochodzenia (Jakość Wino)
  • Portugal: DOP = Denominação de Origem Protegida (IPR, DOC)
  • Romania: DOC = Denumire de Origine Controlată / Vin de Calitate
  • Slovakia: DSC = Districtus Slovakia Controlatus (Akostné Víno, Akostné Víno s Prívlastkom)
  • Slovenia: ZGP = Zaščitenim Geografskim Poreklom / Kakovostno Vino ZGP
  • Spain: DOP = Denominación de Origen Protegida (DO, DOCa, VCIG, VdP)
  • Czech Republic: VOC = Víno Originální Certifikace (Stanovená Oblast)
  • Hungary: OEM = Oltalom alatt álló eredetmegjelölés (Minőségi Bor, Különleges Minőségi Bor)

Summary

The names of the wine-growing regions of all EU countries have been automatically entered in the EU register as protected designation of origin (PDO) and those of the country wine regions as protected geographical indications (PGI) in accordance with the new terminology, i.e. they are recognised and protected under wine law and thus cover the EU requirements. These are, for example, the German wine-growing regions, the Austrian wine-growing regions, the French AOC (now AOP), the Spanish DO/DOCa (now DOP) and the Italian DOC/DOCG areas (now DOP). They can therefore continue to be labelled on the bottle. However, there are country-specific regulations on the use of the new designations.

The terms Landwein, Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein (including all wine types) are no longer standardised EU quality levels, but have been retained only as "traditional indications". This applies above all to Austria and Germany, but also to others. In Austria, the new designations PGI and PDO are prohibited until further notice. In Germany, this was only the case until the end of 2011. Alternatively, the new designations can also be used here, but not in the abbreviated form. In France, Greece, Italy, Portugal and Spain, the old designations are permitted as an alternative.

Other classification systems

In addition to the EU regulation, there are still other classification systems in many countries. In France, for example, these are those in Bordeaux(Graves, Médoc, Saint-Émilion, Sauternes) and Burgundy, as well as the VDP classification in Germany. See also a complete list of the many systems under Grand Cru.

Further information

For the production of alcoholic beverages, see Champagne (sparkling wines), distillation (distillates), spirits (types), winemaking (wines and wine types) and wine law (wine law issues). All work and aids in the vineyard during the vegetation cycle are listed under vineyard care.

Graphic: © Norbert F. J. Tischelmayer

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