Cena Trimalchionis (Banquet of Trimalchio)
This episode, which has become famous as "Cena Trimalchionis", forms the main part of the fragments. It is also an excellent source for the typical food, drink and table manners of the upper classes of early imperial Rome. The cena was the main meal of the day among the higher classes and took place in the late afternoon (beginning at 3 to 4 p.m.), usually after a visit to the baths. The passages on the banquet in question, with explanatory background information, relating specifically to the drinking culture of the time, were taken from a work by Christopher Daniel for the University of Erlangen, who kindly gave his permission for their use.
Water and wine played an important role as beverages in the everyday life of the Romans. Drinking pure water was not common at a cena (especially in wealthy circles), but was an indispensable part of every meal to dilute the wine. Wine was drunk with almost every meal (rarely with breakfast), but especially with the main meal. Light wine was already enjoyed with the hors d'oeuvres (gustatio), preferably the very popular honey wine mulsum. Wine was considered a staple food. Consumption was correspondingly high, with a daily quantity of 0.8 to 1 litre per male and 0.5 litre per female inhabitant of Rome in imperial times. Slaves were also entitled to this, although they certainly had to be content with simple quality. As a rule, this was a marc wine known as iora.
Mixing wine
At the "Cena Trimalchionis" the host gives instructions to mix a mighty pot (a large vessel) and also distribute full cups to the slaves. For the guests, however, a Falernian is served, and not just any Falernian, but a (supposedly) hundred-year-old famous "Opimian" (i.e. from 121 BC). Carefully plastered glass jugs were brought in, with labels stuck to their necks with the text "Falerner, anno Opimius, hundred years old" (whether this was actually true remains to be seen). As with any other wine, it was customary to dilute this exceptional, expensive wine before drinking it. The reason was the relatively high alcohol content, the viscosity of older top wines, as well as the fact that wine was sometimes even drunk with breakfast. This meant that people wanted to drink considerably more of the diluted wine and be able to enjoy its stimulating and intoxicating effect for longer.
Either one mixed with sweeter wine, to soften the bitterness of an older vintage, or with water. In summer, people drank chilled wine, using snow (often brought from far away) or ice water poured into a vessel called a psykter. In winter, warm water was common. The psykter was placed in a larger vessel called a krater. Mixing took place in the individual's cup, more often at drinking parties with the krater into which the wine was poured first and then the water. A sieve-like funnel on the mixing jug made it possible to separate the often cloudy wine from the sediment. From the mixing jug, the wine was poured into the drinking vessels with a ladle (cyathus, about half a litre). Unfortunately, there is no information about the mixing ratios among the Romans. According to Greek information, there were variations depending on the occasion and mood. Two parts wine to five parts water was considered a strong drink, 1:2, 1:3 and 1:4 were not uncommon; always more water than wine. The Romans probably preferred something similar. Those who only wanted to quench their thirst drank wine with plenty of water, those who wanted to forget their worries added less or none at all.
Fruit, grapes and sultanas
Fruit was served at all times of the day and in every course of a cena. Figs were an important basis of the diet and took first place in the popularity scale for fruit in all classes in Rome. Dried, they formed the usual winter diet of the rural population according to Columella (1st century). Wine was also made from figs. In addition to grapes, the Romans already cultivated specially bred table grapes, which played a major role in the daily diet early on. They were an indispensable part of the diet as fresh fruit, as a sweetener and also preserved. Table grapes intended for consumption were grown (to keep them fresh) in the vineyards in the immediate vicinity of Rome. The most common method of preserving fruit was drying. For the production of sultanas, mainly the largest and sweetest fruits were used. However, there were many other techniques. Grapes were also hung in the smoke of the cooker for a long time, which dried them very slowly, giving them a peculiar taste.
Commisatio (drinking party) & Rex bibendi (drinking king)
A cena was usually followed by a "comissatio". This was a boisterous drinking bout that could last until dawn and often ended with most of those present being intoxicated. People garlanded themselves and rubbed themselves with precious, fragrant ointments. No Comissatio took place without a "Rex bibendi" (drinking king, also "Rex convivii" = banquet king). This king was chosen by acclamation or by throwing the dice from the round. In addition to determining the mixing ratio and the mandatory number of drinking units for each participant, his task also included the entertainment for the evening. The most frequent fixed points were mainly musical performances such as dancing, singing, playing the flute or lyre. The drinking king also had to decide who from the round had to entertain the company with whimsical lectures or riddles. The most unusual and crazy ideas were used to raise the spirits, and the limits of good taste were often exceeded.
Toasts & Flos tangomenas facere (Toasts)
During the commisatio, toasts were drunk to the health of those present and absent, the emperor, the senate and the army. The cup was filled to the brim with wine, the speaker pronounced a toast on a person present and emptied it in one go. Now the cup was filled again and handed to the person who had just been honoured, who in turn had to empty the cup. This then went around the circle. Deviations were understood as disapproval or rejection, which revealed many a hidden rivalry. Trimalchio himself was probably the drinking king at the "Cena Trimalchionis". He asked his table companions to tell stories and provided artistic interludes.
However, there are no toasts at the Cena Trimalchionis, only the "Flos tangomenas facere", i.e. the invitation to toast or to get drunk. In connection with the increasing intoxication, which was not considered a disgrace in convivial gatherings - a careful distinction was made between "Ebrius", a temporary state of intoxication, and "Ebriosus", a chronic alcoholic - there were, of course, sometimes arguments and sometimes assaults due to the disinhibiting effect of alcohol. The no longer sober host Trimalcho, for example, throws a wine cup at his wife. See also Ancient Wines, Ancient Grape Varieties, Bacchus, Dionysus and Drinking Culture.
Source: Christopher Daniel (work for the University of Erlangen)
Petronius: By P. Bodart - GoogleBooks, Public Domain, Link
Roman festivals: By Roberto Bompiani - Public Domain, Link
Crater: By unknown - Bibi Saint-Pol, Public Domain, Link
Petronii arbitri: By Thomas Völker, Public Domain, Link
Psycter: By Jastrow, Public domain, Link
