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Sauvignonasse

The white grape variety originates from south-west France; the name means "Sauvignon-like". Synonyms grouped alphabetically by country are Mosler (Germany); Sauvignon Vert (Chile); Blanc Doux, Cinquien, Sauvignon à Gros Grain, Sauvignon de la Corrèze, Sauvignon Vert (France); Friulano, Malaga, Occhio di Gatta, Occhio di Gatto, Tai, Tai Bianco, Tocai, Tocai Bianco, Tocai Friulano, Tocai Italico, Trebbianello, Tuchì, Uva Bianca Antica (Italy); Istarski Tokay, Zeleni Sauvignon (Slovenia). It must not be confused with the varieties Furmint (Northern Italy), Muscadelle (Sauvignon Vert in California), Riesling (Argentina and Chile) or Sauvignon Blanc (Argentina, Chile, France, Russia), despite seemingly suggestive synonyms or morphological similarities, which was often the case in the past in the countries concerned. Especially in South America, the confusion was great because the varieties Sauvignonasse and Sauvignon Blanc were planted in many vineyards in mixed sets. The variety was a crossing partner of the new varieties Fleurtai and Soreli.

Sauvignonasse - Weintraube und Blatt

The exact origin of the variety is the Gironde in the southwest of France, where it was never cultivated on a large scale. It was often grown together with Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Today there are only remnants and it no longer appears in the statistics. The parentage is unknown. According to DNA analyses, it is not a direct descendant of Sauvignon Blanc, as one might assume from the name. According to DNA analyses carried out in 2012, it is a parent of Saint-Pierre Doré. The early to medium ripening, high-yielding vine is susceptible to botrytis, grape rot, esca and both powdery mildews. It yields golden yellow, floral white wines with aromas of herbs, citrus and almonds. They are considered less aromatic but more full-bodied and alcoholic than those made from Sauvignon Blanc.

The variety was introduced in northern Italy (Friuli) in the early 19th century and was called Tocai for a long time. The name was used to exploit the popularity of Tokay. According to one hypothesis, the variety originated in Hungary and is identical to the Tokay variety Furmint. The latter was allegedly introduced by Count Ottelio di Ariis in 1863. A second hypothesis took the opposite route, namely that the variety was brought to Hungary by a Formentini family from Friuli. And according to a third hypothesis, as early as the 13th century the patriarch Bertoldo di Andechs sent the Hungarian king Bela IV. (1235-1270) Tocai cuttings. But the variety has nothing to do with Furmint. Pierre Galet (1921-2019) had long equated it with Sauvignonasse, which was confirmed by DNA analyses carried out in 2003.

In the 1930s, the ampelographer Giovanni Dalmasso (1886-1974) suggested the name Tocai Friulano to avoid confusion with Tokay. Hungary, however, did not agree. After long legal disputes, the EU decided in 2002 that the name Tocai Friulano could only be used until 31 March 2007. On the other hand, the Italian authorities allowed Friulian winegrowers to market their Tocai from the 2006 vintage with this name again. The reason for the controversial authorisation was the laborious search for the future name of the grape variety or wine. For years, the winegrowers had not been able to come to an agreement despite the approaching ban. Now, in Friuli Venezia Giulia, the grape variety is only called Friulano for short, in Veneto, however, it is called Tai (the Japanese-looking name was created by omitting the letters "oc") and exclusively only in the DOC area San Martino della Battaglia Tuchì.

In Italy, the variety is mainly cultivated in Friuli Venezia Giulia, but also in many other regions such as Lazio, Lombardy and Veneto. It is permitted in the DOC/DOCG wines Bianco di Custoza, Breganze, Colli Euganei, Collio Goriziano, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Corti Benedettine del Padovano, Friuli Annia, Friuli Aquileia, Friuli Grave, Friuli Isonzo, Garda, Lison, Lison-Pramaggiore, Merlara, Piave, Riviera del Brenta, Rosazzo and San Martino della Battaglia, among others. The total area under cultivation in Italy is 2,503 hectares with a constantly decreasing trend (in 2000 it was 4,517 hectares).

In Slovenia, the variety occupies 231 hectares. Here there were similar naming problems as in Italy. At first, the name Točai was proposed, but this was also not recognised by the EU, as in Italy. The name Friulano is not used in Slovenia. The name Zeleni Sauvignon is not accepted by all winegrowers and the wine is marketed under fantasy names such as Gredic, Jakot or Pikotno. There are other stocks in Russia and Switzerland (0.3 ha). Overseas, these are Argentina (424 ha), Australia (1 ha), Chile (658 ha) and USA (44 ha). In 2016, a total of 3,861 hectares of vineyards were designated. The variety is thus ranked 133rd in the global grape variety ranking (Kym Andersdon).

Source: Wine Grapes / J. Robinson, J. Harding, J. Vouillamoz / Penguin Books Ltd. 2012
Images: Ursula Brühl, Doris Schneider, Julius Kühn-Institut (JKI)

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