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The famous dessert wine was named after the town of Jerez de la Frontera (Jerez on the border) in the province of Cádiz in the Andalusia region between the two cities of Seville and Cádiz, deep in the south of Spain. It has been a centre of wine, liqueur and brandy production since the Middle Ages. In 711, Spain came under Arab rule, but wine continued to be produced despite the Islamic ban on alcohol. Caliph Alhaka II decided to uproot the vines in 966, but the locals successfully argued that some of the grapes were also processed into sultanas, which the Muslims fed on during their campaigns. As a result, only a third of the vines were destroyed. As early as the 12th century, Spanish winegrowers sent sherry to England and received English wool in return.

Sherry - Karte und Albariza

Sherry as a brand

It was during this time that the wine got its name, derived from the Arabic name of the town "Sherish" or "Xeris". At the time, it was considered one of the best wines in the world. The conquest by the Castilian King Alfonso X (1221-1284) in 1264 brought Jerez back under Christian rule and ended five centuries of Moorish domination. Before a battle, the Christians allegedly even gave their horses a drink of wine to revitalise them. In 1483, the city fathers of Jerez issued the first legal regulations for the production of sherry, which included detailed instructions for the grape harvest, the nature of the leather wineskins, ageing and trading practices. In the 19th century, Spanish companies settled in Jerez, some of which still exist today. Wines were produced all over the world under the name Sherry, but the name was only protected in the European Union in 1996.

Sherry in Shakespeare plays

Sherry was ideally suited for longer voyages due to its shelf life. In 1519, for example, the Portuguese navigator Ferñao de Magellan (1480-1521) bought 417 tubes and 253 barrels of sherry before setting off on his voyage around the world. In 1587, the English privateer Sir Francis Drake (1540-1596) attacked the city of Cádiz and stole 2,900 barrels of sherry. This quickly became popular and an English fashionable drink. William Shakespeare (1564-1616) was a fan of sherry, drinking a considerable amount every day in his favourite pub, the Bear Head Tavern. Wine was repeatedly mentioned by name in scenes from his works (Richard III, Henry IV and The Merry Wives of Windsor). In this context, Shakespeare - and the sherry - was also involved in the naming of the sparkling wine (see there).

DO area Jerez

The DO area Jerez was already classified in 1933. Its full name is Jerez/Xérèz/Sherry y Manzanilla de Sanlúcar Barrameda. The area for the sherry is the eastern part and the area for the manzanilla is the western part. There are therefore two DO areas. The production area covers over 7,000 hectares. Around 80% of the vineyards are certified as Jerez Superior. Here, the location, the climatic conditions and the Albariza soils with their special physico-chemical properties are ideal for producing high-quality wines. It is perhaps less well known that there are two other Jerez DO designations, namely Vinagre de Jerez (sherry vinegar) and Brandy de Jerez(brandy).

Sherry - Rebflächen

The area under cultivation was expanded in 2021. The designation Viñedos de Jerez Superior is now available for all areas of the DO region and no longer just for Jerez, El Puerto, Sanlúcar and Trebujena, as was previously the case.

Climate

The mild, Mediterranean climate is influenced by the nearby Atlantic Ocean. There are summers with little rainfall and frost-free winters. The average temperature is around 17.5 °Celsius and rises to 40 °Celsius in summer. Rain falls about 75 days a year. The high humidity coming from the sea has a positive effect on the ageing of the wines.

Soils

Most of the vineyards face the Atlantic Ocean. Particularly on the mountain slopes, the soil consists of limestone marl, known here as albariza (Latin alba = white). The surface is covered with a kind of fine powder, which gives the typical bright white colour and reduces evaporation. The lower layer has an excellent water storage capacity. Alongside the climate and the winemakers ' art, this is the greatest secret of Sherry's success. There are only small areas with sandy or clayey soils. The vines are planted in rows (liños) orientated in a north-south direction. This maximises exposure (sunlight) throughout the day.

Grape varieties

The most important sherry variety is Listán (Palomino), which accounts for around 90% of the growing area. It contributes to the special character of the wine. Small stocks of the Muscat d'Alexandrie (mainly around Chipiona) and Pedro Ximénez varieties are also cultivated, which are mainly used to sweeten special sherry varieties. In 2021, a further six white grape varieties from the time before the phylloxera plague were authorised. These are Beba, Cañocazo, Mantúo Castellano (Alcañón), Mantúo de Pilas (Chelva), Perruno and Vigiriega (Sumoll). There is a map of the special sites, the so-called Pagos.

Production rules

The "Consejo Regulador" (Regulatory Council) is responsible for the regulations of the entire production process, quality control and proof of origin. In 2021, the most extensive changes to the rules for sherry in 50 years were adopted. This concerns the growing region, the authorised grape varieties, individual designations and the ageing period of sherry types. These changes are listed in the relevant chapters.

The production and ageing of wines and the use of the protected designation of origin is only permitted in the so-called Sherry Triangle. This is formed by the three towns of Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda, which is why the ageing cellars are only located in these towns.

Harvest & fermentation

The sugar and acidity content of the grapes is decisive for the start of the harvest. The grapes are harvested by hand; the grapes are collected in baskets (volume of 11.5 kg = 1 arroba) so that they are not damaged. Exactly 62 of the baskets make one carretada, the quantity of grapes required for 500 litres of must. The grapes intended for sweet wines are exposed to the sun during the day on mats of esparto grass to increase the sugar content, which further reduces the already low acidity, and are covered at night so that they do not suffer any damage in the cool, damp night air.

This sun treatment lasts at least 48 hours. In a traditional process, gypsum (Yeso) is added to the grapes before pressing. The type of sherry to be produced from the material is usually decided during pressing. Fermentation usually takes place in stainless steel tanks with a capacity of up to 40,000 litres at temperatures between 22 and 24°C. Some bodegas use fermentation in new oak barrels (bota or barrique barrels).

Deciding on the type of sherry

Once fermentation is complete, a decision is made as to which wine is best suited to which type of sherry, depending on its quality. Each barrel is checked and classified by the capataz (cellar master), which requires a great deal of experience. The barrels are labelled with diagonal chalk lines (raya = line or stripe, or palo = stick, see Palo Cortado) in four categories according to their value. This coding varies slightly depending on the bodega or producer.

Una Raya (one bar) is awarded for fine, elegant wines that are expected to have a good flavour for finos, manzanillas and later amontillados. Dos Ray as (two strokes) are awarded to full-bodied wines that are not expected to be flavoured and are therefore intended for an Olorosos. Tres Rayas (three lines) are given to all wines whose development cannot yet be foreseen and which therefore have to be reclassified after a few weeks. The inferior wines with an acidic, harsh flavour are given Cuatro Rayas (four lines) and are destined for distillation(Brandy de Jerez) or the production of vinegar (Vinagre de Jerez) . The wines in the first three groups are now left to their own devices. A second assessment takes place after nine months at the earliest, when the sherry types are finally determined.

Sherry - Fass mit Florschicht und Catavino Glas

Sprits & storage

The wines in the first group are fortified to around 15% alcohol by volume (encabezado). Since 2021, it is no longer necessary to fortify wines if they reach the required alcohol content naturally during fermentation. This means that non-fortified wines can now also receive DO recognition. After spriting, the wines mature in oak barrels with a volume of around 600 litres. The barrels are only filled five-sixths full, leaving an empty space or air chamber about two hand-widths high, which allows the very important flor to grow. The spontaneous development of yeasts on the surface of the wine prevents oxidation in the two types of sherry, Fino and Manzanilla. This layer isolates the wine from the air, removes alcohol and provides it with typical flavours.

The barrel volume has an important relationship with the flor yeast layer. Liquid is lost through the barrel wall (shrinkage). However, due to the volume and surface area, the alcohol content always remains the same. If smaller or larger barrels were used, the balance would be disturbed and the flor yeast would die, as it only forms between 14.5 and 16% vol. The second group of wines is fortified up to 17.5% vol. to prevent the formation of flor. The maturation process, from which the Oloroso wine types emerge, begins with the filling of the barrels under the influence of oxygen. Storage in warehouses on the ground floor characterises the ageing process, which is made possible by the constant flow of air through the openings in the warehouses. The modern warehouses are air-conditioned for this purpose.

Solera system

The ageing and blending technique for sherry is called "solera" or "criadera-solera". Solera (lying on the floor, from suelo = floor) refers to the lowest row of barrels containing the oldest wine. Traditionally, sherry matures in rows of barrels (escalas) of the same type, but at different stages of maturity - the deeper, the older. The oldest wine is in the bottom row and the youngest in the top row. The average ageing time for a wine in the solera system is calculated by dividing the total wine stock in a solera system by the amount of wine extracted each year. This means that a sherry can be marketed after two years at the earliest.

Saca & Criadera (extraction and refilling)

Up to a third of the sherry is regularly removed from the bottom row for consumption; this is called "saca" (removal). This quantity is replaced from the row above, the "criadera" (breeding or storage area), which in turn is topped up from the next layer up, until finally the top row is topped up with young wine from the sobretablas or añadas system. The topping up of a row of barrels is called "Rocío". This mixes all the existing vintages. The withdrawals and refillings in the different rows are called "correr escalas".

Trasiegos (blending)

The blending of the wines, also known as "trasiegos", must be carried out with particular care. There are special personnel for this, the "trasegadors" (decanters). They work with their own technical equipment to homogenise the wine. Neither the lees nor the "cabezuelas" (barrel deposits) may be stirred up during this process. The characteristics of the older wines are passed on to the younger ones so that the quality and type always remain almost the same. Most sherries go through six to seven solera stages, in extreme cases up to 14. Today, the barrels are often no longer stacked in the classic form, but in different groups or even in different bodegas.

Sherry - Solerasystem und Bezeichnungen

Production recipes

Depending on the type of sherry, the quantity of wine extracted and the time at which it is extracted is precisely determined by the individual sherry producers and is a closely guarded secret passed down from generation to generation. The average ageing time for a wine is determined by the quotient that results when the total wine stock in the system is divided by the amount of wine extracted each year. According to the specifications of the Control Council, this quotient must be greater than two. Only wines aged for at least two years may be marketed.

The soleras of exquisite sherries are only topped up with wines from the best vintages, so that in poor years (without topping up with new wine) no sherry can be bottled from the lowest casks. In general, the minimum ageing period for sherry is three years, an amontillado under seven years is almost impossible and sophisticated brands mature for up to 15 years and longer. When the finos slowly lose their flor, a new ageing process can be added to the biological ageing under flor. Firstly, the transformation into Fino-Amontillado takes place and then into Amontillado. In the case of Manzanilla, this process begins with Manzanilla Pasada, which eventually also transforms into Amontillado.

Sherry types

The colour ranges from light to dark and from dry to sweet. As a rule, the lighter the colour, the drier - the darker, the sweeter. However, sherry is always a white wine; there is no tinto variant (red wine), although the colour can be very dark. A basic distinction is made between three major types of sherry. These are Fino and Manzanilla, which are matured without oxygen under flor, Amontillado, which is matured under oxidation, Oloroso, which is matured under the influence of oxygen, and Palo Cortado, which is somewhere between Amontillado and Oloroso in terms of flavour.

Fino - the classic sherry

The classic bone-dry sherry with a light, golden yellow colour and typical almond aroma, which is ready to drink relatively young compared to the other types. In Sanlúcar de Barrameda, it is called Manzanilla (see below). The grapes mostly come from the lower, cooler growing areas. It matures under a thick layer of flor without oxidative influence. The alcohol content is 15 to 18% vol. A Fino is the basis or precursor for the two variants Amontillado and Palo Cortado. However, as described above, a wine originally intended as a fino can still become an oloroso over the years if the flor layer dies off by itself and the wine has a fragrant (oloroso) character. Since 2021, there has been a new Fino Viejo category with a minimum ageing period of seven years.

Amontillado

This full-bodied and flavour-intensive Fino variety initially develops under flor; at this stage, the wine is a Fino. By spriting over 16% alcohol by volume or blending with an old fino, the flor yeast dies and the wine goes through an oxidation phase. After maturing for 12 to 15 years, it is called Fino-Amontillado, after more than 15 years it is called Amontillado. Depending on the ageing process, the colour develops from dark gold to light brown to a blackish brown. The delicate flavour is reminiscent of hazelnuts. A real Amontillado is completely dry. However, there are also semi-sweet products of lower quality, which are blended from raya and sweet wines. The alcohol content is 16 to 22% vol.

Manzanilla

This light yellow fino variety is also known as the "Senorita of sherries". It matures under flor and comes exclusively from the Sanlúcar de Barrameda region at the mouth of the River Guadalquivir. Due to the strong Atlantic winds that prevail here, the wine has a typical, slightly salty and slightly bitter flavour. Due to the humid and cool air in summer, the yeasts last all year round and, in contrast to Jerez, there is far less risk of the flor layer dying off. It is first called Manzanilla-Finaand (since 2021) after at least 7 years of maturation Manzanilla-Pasada. The alcohol content is between 15 and 19% vol. The name is derived from "manzana" (apple), which refers to the freshness, or from "manzanilla" (camomile), because the wine has the typical odour.

Oloroso

This main variety is produced without a flor layer under oxidative influence. Oloroso is darker, fuller-bodied and stronger in flavour than the Fino and Amontillado types. The dry, amber to mahogany-coloured wine has a pronounced, fragrant nutty aroma (oloroso = fragrant). It is one of the longest-lived wines with an incredible shelf life of 50 to 100 years. The alcohol content is between 17 and 22% vol.

Palo Cortado

This variety cannot (allegedly) be produced on purpose, only about one barrel in a thousand becomes Palo Cortado under uncontrollable conditions. This is the official rumour. However, with the quantities of many producers coming onto the market every year, this legendary explanation is open to doubt. Palo means "stick" or "thick line". Barrels are marked with thick lines (rayas or palos) according to their quality (see above). A Palo Cortado is created from a quality originally intended as Amontillado. If the flor yeast suddenly dies in a barrel and intensive oxygen contact occurs prematurely, the wine can no longer become an Amontillado due to the lack of flor yeast. However, a pure Oloroso is also no longer possible, as the wine started out as an Amontillado.

If the wine is suitable, it is only designated as a Palo Cortado at this stage by the cellar master. The "palos" (strokes) are crossed out, figuratively "cut off". This gives the meaning of Palo Cortado = "cut off stick". It now undergoes a lengthy oxidative process. The mostly dry wine has the hazelnut-like aroma of an Amontillado and the flavour and body of an Oloroso. The alcohol content is between 18 and 20% by volume. However, there are also sweet varieties.

In addition to these standard sherry types, there are also numerous sub-variants, which are produced using different methods and recipes depending on the producer. Some of these are

Cream

This type was created especially for northern European flavours and is much less popular in Spain. The sweet, dark wine matures without a flor layer with an oxidative influence. It is a blend of Oloroso with sweet wine (dulce). For simple creams, a sugar solution or must is used, for better creams arrope (thickened grape must) from the Pedro Ximénez variety and for the best creams (then Amoroso), Pedro Ximénez sherries matured for a long time in the solera process. The alcohol content ranges from 15.5 to 22% vol.

Golden

Similar to the Cream, mild and slightly sweet type. The alcohol content is around 15% vol.

Medium Dry

A semi-dry, mahogany-coloured wine with a spicy aroma. It is an Amontillado blend of young, sweet wines. The alcohol content is 15 to 22% vol.

Pale Cream

A sweet Fino variant with a pale colour (pale = light) and a spicy aroma. The alcohol content is 15.5 to 22% vol.

Pedro Ximénez (PX)

A sweet version made from the grape variety of the same name, which is sometimes also referred to as the "Trockenbeerenauslese" among sherries. The grapes are exposed to the sun and lose moisture as a result. An old PX sherry is almost syrupy and black-brown in colour with intense aromas of dried plums and sultanas. The alcohol content is between 15 and 22% vol.

Enjoying sherry

Particularly old sherries are given an age certificate on the back label (VORS = 30 years and VOS = 20 years). In Spain, sherry is drunk from special glasses. The tulip-shaped catavino tapers towards the top and catches the bouquet. Traditionally, the sherry is taken out of the barrel with the venencia (silver cup on a long stick) and poured into the glass in a high arc. The Fino and Manzanilla varieties should be served chilled, the other sherries slightly chilled. Sherry bottles should always be stored upright (avoiding cork contact) and in a dry, dark place. Opened bottles must be recorked (see also under wine enjoyment).

Venencia - mit Catavino-Glas und Cana-Glas

Sherry producers

Well-known sherry producers and trading houses are Tomás Abad, Herederos de Argueso, Antonio Barbadillo, Agustin Blázquez, Bobadilla, Bodegas Internacionales, González Byass, Luis Caballero, Croft, Domecq, El Maestro Sierra, José Estevez, Jesús Ferris, Garvey, Hidalgo La Gitana, La Guita, Harvey's, Emilio Hidalgo, M. Gil Luque, Lustau, Marqués del Real Tesoro, Hijos de Rainera Pérez Marín, José Medina, Los Infantes de Orleans-Borbón, Osborne, Paternina, César Florido Romero, Pedro Romero, Sánchez Romate, Sandeman, Terry, Valdespino, Valdivia, Williams & Humbert, Delgado Zuleta and Don Zoilo. Most of them also produce a Brandy de Jerez. Small, private sherry producers go by the protected name of Almacenista.

Sherry-Flaschen verschiedener Produzenten

Further information

For the production of alcoholic beverages, see Champagne (sparkling wines), distillation (distillates), spirits (types), winemaking (wines and wine types) and wine law (wine law issues). All work and tools in the vineyard during the vegetation cycle are listed under vineyard care.

Map, Albariza and vineyard area: © Consejo Regulador de las Denominaciones de Origen "Jerez-Xérès-Sherry "
Barrel with flor layer: By El Pantera - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link
Catavino: Riedel glass, Sommeliers series
Solera: from MJ TF on Pixabay
Diagram: Norbert F. J. Tischelmayer
Venencia: By Jesus Solana - originally posted to Flickr as La venenciadora, CC BY 2.0, Link

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Thomas Götz

Serious sources on the internet are rare - and Wine lexicon from wein.plus is one such source. When researching for my articles, I regularly consult the wein.plus encyclopaedia. There I get reliable and detailed information.

Thomas Götz
Weinberater, Weinblogger und Journalist; Schwendi

The world's largest Lexicon of wine terms.

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